PROCIDA itinerary - the enchanted island of watercolour houses and turquoise sea
(what to do + best beaches)
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- Posted by VISIT NAPLES AND AMALFI COAST TRAVEL TIPS
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How to get to Procida : from molo beverello (Naples) via ferry only 35 min.
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On line ticket FERRYHOPPER : https://www.ferryhopper.com/it/#/
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This volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples seems almost out of time, in the idyllic setting of fishing boats and small villages perched on hills.
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Here a typically Mediterranean beauty and from literature to film it was starred in many works. In the late 1950s, Elsa Morante dedicated the book L'Isola di Arturo to this island.
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It’s not a coincidence that Procida today is also called “the island of the postman”, due to the fact that the very popular film”Il postino” (The postman) was shot here in 1995 and, every year, many tourists and film lovers come here to find the locations used in this fantastic film.
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But Procida was the setting for many other famous films, such as, “ The talented Mr. Ripley”, “Plein Soleil”, “House of dolls” and if ,for example, you stroll along the narrow alleyways of the pretty fishing village of Corricella, you are bound to recognize some of the locations used in these films.
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Things to do in Procida
Procida is the least-visited of the three islands in the Bay of Naples – something which seems incredible given how beautiful it is. Unlike Capri and parts of Ischia, even the most popular areas of Procida have a laid-back, local feel. The shops still cater to the residents’ needs rather than being targeted at tourists, and you won’t find the tour groups of Capri or the Amalfi Coast here.
Even though is Procida is tiny, there are still plenty of interesting places to visit and things to do – enough to fill a day trip or two days, if you decide to stay overnight.
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1 ) Gaze at the view over Marina di Corricella
If you see nothing else in Procida, make sure you come here. It’s worth making the trip to Procida just to see this. The view over Marina di Corricella from the road up to the castle is a sweeping, romantic vista across a glistening bay with fishing boats bobbing in the harbour, the ice-cream colours of the 17th-century fishermen’s houses and the lemon sherbet-coloured Santa Maria delle Grazie Incoronata church.
To get there from the ferry port : walk up the hill from the ferry port to the other side of the island, then up again towards the medieval citadel. Look over the wall, and you’ll see one of the most beautiful views in Europe. There’s often a little red food truck serving beer, Aperol spritzes and vegan cakes parked up, and there are a couple of benches where you can sit for a while.
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2 ) Wander around historic Terra Murata
The viewpoint is also the start of Terra Murata, a fortified medieval village at the highest point on Procida. The two cannons date from the Neapolitan Republic of 1799, but much of Terra Murata is far older. The main building in Terra Murata is the brooding Palazzo d’Avalos, built in 1563 and turned into a prison in the 1800s. It’s now open for guided tours.
At the highest point of Terra Murata you’ll find a square with traditional houses, and the 16th-century Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo.
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3 ) Visit Marina di Corricella
walking down through the village to the waterfront is one of the best things to do in Procida. It’s only by walking through the narrow streets that you can really appreciate how the houses have been built directly on top of each other as they cascade down the cliff.
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4) See the courtyard houses at Casale Vascello
Down a narrow alleyway just down the hill from Terra Murata, you’ll find a thick archway leading to Casale Vascello. This small courtyard of traditional houses was built in the 16th century and shows the characteristic architecture of Procida, with outside staircases and arched windows.
The houses are still inhabited, and the square feels very quiet and private, with washing hanging from the centuries-old balconies.
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5) Explore Marina Grande
If anywhere on Procida could be described as “bustling”, it’d be Marina Grande. This is where the ferries from Naples and Ischia dock, and the busiest place on the island. Marina Grande’s waterfront has lots of bars, restaurants and shops of all kinds. While it’s not as charming as Marina di Corricella, the pastel-coloured buildings are still pretty, and the beaches at either end of the Via Roma waterfront are great for relaxing and watching the world go by.
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6) Go to the beach
While Procida isn’t famous for its beaches, there are plenty to choose from if you’re looking for some beach time during your trip to Procida.
- Spiaggia Chiaia is a long but narrow dark sand beach a little further west of Marina di Corricella, with a view of the Terra Murata citadel, Capri and Vesuvius. There are two cafes with sunbeds and umbrellas available to rent.
- Spiaggia Chiaiolella, also known as Ciracciello, is on the south-western tip of Procida, near the bridge across to Vivara. It gets the sun all day, and has warm, shallow waters. This side of Procida gets stunning sunsets.
- Spiaggia Ciraccio is separated from Chiaiolella (Ciracciello) by two large rocks. It’s more secluded than Chiaiolella, with fewer beach bars or cafes.
- Spiaggia Cala del Pozzo Vecchio, also known as Il Postino Beach, as scenes from the classic film il Postino were filmed here. There’s just one beach bar here with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent, plus a public (free) beach area.
- Spiaggia di Punta Ottimo. This beach is close to Cala del Pozzo Vecchio, but more difficult to access and therefore significantly quieter.
- Spiaggia Silurenza. The closest beach to the ferry port at Marina Grande, Silurenza is easy to access with many bars and restaurants close by.
- Spiaggia Lingua is at the eastern tip of Procida and is another convenient beach for the ferry port and marina. Unlike the other beaches on Procida, which are dark volcanic sand, Lingua is pebbly, but the water is beautifully clear. It’s a free beach with great facilities and is a particularly lovely spot in the early morning when the sun rises over Naples and Mount Vesuvius.
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How to get around Procida
Getting around Procida is easy. The entire island has an area of only 1.6 square miles, and it’s easy to see the major sites on foot. Walking across the island from the ferry port to Marina di Corricella takes only 10-15 minutes – if you can get there without stopping to peer into a doorway or take a detour down an interesting alley.
If you want to visit the beaches on the western coast and don’t fancy the walk, four bus routes cross the island or taxis are available.
TRADITIONAL DISHES ON PROCIDA (Lemons , Lingua di Bue , fish and seafood, coniglio alla procidana)
The cuisine on Procida reflects the spirit of the island itself, with simple yet captivating dishes made with fresh, locally sourced seafood and other island ingredients served in an inviting atmosphere.
LEMONS
One of the first things you may notice when you arrive on the island is that there are enormous local lemons hanging from fragrant trees lining the streets and shading private courtyards. These heirloom citrus fruits are one of the main ingredients in many island dishes and the star of the show in treats such as lemon granita (Felice Mare is one of the most famous granita artisans in the entire archipelago), limoncello liqueur, lemon pastry custard, and the traditional insalata di limoni (a savory salad with fresh lemon, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, red pepper, mint, and salt).
Felice Mare ( most famous lemon granita )
Address : Via Marina di Corricella, 79, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/WzsvBmv
Tripadvisorlink : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Attraction_Review-g187787-d4700813-Reviews-Felice_Mare-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
LINGUA DI BUE
Local lemons are also the secret ingredient that make the island's most beloved sweet, "la lingua", so delicious. These pastries are officially known as lingua di bue (ox tongue) due to their oval shape, and are made of two layers of pate brisée enclosing a center of smooth lemon pastry custard. They're then sprinkled with granulated sugar before baking to form a crisp, sweet crust on top.
According to local lore, Neapolitan pastry chef Pasquale Mazziotti invented lingua di bue after moving to the island in the 1950s. Though it's known as ox tongue, islanders have also been known to call these long, wide pastries "Lingua di Suocera", or mother-in-law's tongue.
FISH AND SEAFOOD
The island is also known for its excellent local fish and seafood, one of the highlights of Procida's traditional cuisine. In addition to specialties featuring shellfish, seafood, and fish, two crowd-pleasers are the local delicacies spaghetti con i ricci, an intensely rich dish made with spaghetti and sea urchins; and pasta con i Totanielli, a pasta dish with tiny squid tossed with sweet local cherry tomatoes. The dish is usually made with paccheri (a tube-shaped pasta) or ravioli stuffed with green bell peppers or eggplant and ricotta cheese. Finally, be sure to try spaghetti con le canocchie di Procida, a traditional pasta dish featuring locally caught mantis shrimp. For main dishes i suggest trying palamita, a type of tuna fish that was long considered of inferior quality yet beloved by many aficionados for its intense flavor.
CONIGLIO ALLA PROCIDANA
If fish and seafood isn't your thing, you can feast on coniglio alla Procidana, a rabbit dish that's very similar to a specialty on the nearby island of Ischia, stewed with garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, tomatoes, and wine.
GUIDE TO THE BEST RESTAURANTS ON PROCIDA
The best restaurants on Procida to try the specialties above and many more local delicacies from the island and surrounding waters.
Chiaiolella area ( best restaurants )
Restaurant Da Girone
A landmark restaurant on Procida, known also on the mainland due to its superior-quality ingredients selected personally each day both the chef and host Girone, known as Ciro, that feature in the fish and seafood dishes, as well as the Neapolitan pizza fired in a wood-burning oven. The menu changes regularly and the vibe is relaxed. I suggest booking in advance, given the popularity of this eatery among locals and visitors from the mainland.
Specialty: spaghetti with lemon pesto, mussels and mint or pasta with savory custard.
Address : Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 4, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/Yt7nGjo
Tripadvisorlink : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g187787-d2109125-Reviews-Ristorante_Da_Girone-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
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Restaurant Crescenzo
Crescenzo is Girone's brother, and this restaurant is located right in the center of Marina Chiaiolella. The food here is focused on seafood, with simple yet delicious dishes featuring the catch of the day. The menu includes a wide selection of choices and portions are generous. Be sure to try the smoked swordfish with sweet peppers and pink peppercorns and the original mashed potatoes with roasted squid and anchovy sauce.
Specialty: smoked swordfish with pink pepper and peppers and handmade mashed potatoes with roasted octopus and anchovy sauce.
Address : Via Marina Chiaiolella, 33
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/JtYiVDd
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Da Mariano
Another local landmark, but the menu here features traditional island specialties that have been updated with a gourmet twist. The location is spectacular, with gorgeous views over the Chiaiolella bay and Santa Margherita promontory.
Specialty: Pasta with mussels and broccoli
Address : Via Marina Chiaiolella, 32, 80079 Procida NA
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g187787-d2274883-Reviews-Da_Mariano-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
Lido Vivara
Dine with your feet dug directly into the sandy beach along Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, just steps from the Marina Chiaiolella harbor. This restaurant specializes in Neapolitan cuisine, blending classic dishes with contemporary creativity. Our favorite specialty is the squid and artichokes.
Specialty: Black tagliolini with prawns
Address : Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 4, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/cBVG8Yf
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g187787-d1467490-i149724787-Ristorante_Vivara-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
Corricella area ( best restaurants)
La Lampara
Ideal for a romantic dinner for two, this restaurant is set on a scenic terrace overlooking the sea in the highest and most panoramic spot in Marina Corricella. At sunset, the atmosphere here is truly magic. The menu features traditional island and Mediterranean specialties with a focus on fresh fish caught by local fishermen. I love the linguine tossed with sea urchin.
Specialty: Tortelli stuffed with sea urchins and tuna with pistachio
Address : Via Marina di Corricella, 88, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/84Wo5yr
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g187787-d1901754-Reviews-La_Lampara-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
Caracalè
This restaurant on Via Marina di Corricella has tables set along the waterfront and can seat just 35 guests. Settle in at your front-row spot to admire the turquoise waters and pastel houses lining of Corricella. A wide selection of wines to pair with an equally generous choice of seafood-based dishes.
Specialty: Bonito tartare and spaghetti with cannocchie (mantis shrimp) and cherry tomatoes.
Address : Via Marina di Corricella, 62, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/HTqtL3f
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g187787-d1587229-i276562986-Caracale-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
Gorgonia
If you want to sample the island's famed "lemon salad", this is the place. In addition to this traditional specialty, Gorgonia serves grilled and poached fresh fish captured in the waters off Procida. The atmosphere is relaxed and ideal for a couple or group of friends.
Specialty: lemon salad, spaghetti with sea urchins
Location: Via Marina di Corricella, 50
Tel: +39 081 810 1060
Address : Via Marina di Corricella, 50, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/KnVY7aX
Tripadvisor link : https://it.tripadvisor.ch/Restaurant_Review-g187787-d1111658-Reviews-or50-La_Gorgonia-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
Marina Grande area ( Best restaurants)
La Medusa
One of the first restaurants to open in Marina Grande, this landmark eatery has been a favorite among locals and tourists since 1954. The menu has recently shifted from island standards to a more modern cuisine based on locally sourced and freshly caught fish and seafood. The menu changes daily based on what the fishermen have brought to market each morning, but favorites like spaghetti with sea urchins or slipper lobster, "pasta alla pescatora povera" with fried green hot peppers and anchovies, and stuffed squid are almost always featured.
Specialty: "poor" seafood pasta
Address : Via Roma, 116, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/3HZLrPW
L’Approdo
Opened in 1987, this historic eatery is known for its excellent food at affordable prices and is ideal if you are looking for a quick meal before taking a ferry back to the mainland. I suggest the spaghetti with anchovies and pecorino cheese, paccheri pasta with swordfish and eggplant, or scialatielli pasta with lemon and shrimp.
Specialty: spaghetti with anchovies and pecorino, paccheri with swordfish and egg plants and scialatielli with lemon and shrimps
Address : Via Roma, 76, 80079 Procida NA
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g187787-d1905020-i56784251-Ristorante_L_Approdo-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
La Pergola
Set in a delightful garden with a lemon-tree pergola in the center of the island of Procida, this peaceful spot is far from the hustle and bustle of traffic and crowds and surrounded by the calming sounds of nature. Though they do serve wonderful fresh fish, most clients come here for inland specialties like unforgettable coniglio alla procidana (stewed rabbit), considered the best on the island. Don't skip the excellent desserts.
Specialty: coniglio all’Ischitana
Address : Via Salette, 10, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/cix7z7G
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g187787-d2094887-Reviews-La_Pergola-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
The Best Cafés and Bars
For an aperitivo cocktail: the best cocktail bar is in Marina di Corricella: Felice Mare, famous for its incredible granita al limone and excellent drinks, including the unique limoncello spritz. Relax and take in the view of the harbor lined with colorful houses and crowded with charming fishing boats.
Felice Mare
Address : Via Marina di Corricella, 79, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/WzsvBmv
Tripadvisorlink : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Attraction_Review-g187787-d4700813-Reviews-Felice_Mare-Procida_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
For coffee: the best spot for a cappuccino or espresso and pastry is on Via Roma in Marina Grande: Bar Roma Pasticceria, known as having the best Lingue di Bue on the island!
Bar Roma
Address : Via Roma, 164, 80079 Procida NA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/thLydsa
WHERE TO STAY IN PROCIDA
How to choose the right location for your hotel on Procida
Choosing where to stay on the island of Procida isn't difficult: the island is tiny; there's a limited choice of hotels, holiday homes, and B&Bs; and the villages are very close to each other. You can reach all the beaches spread across the island on foot or by taking a bus or scooter in just minutes. However, if you have a limited amount of time to spend on the island, you'll want to book an accommodation on Procida that perfectly matches your taste or needs to make the most of your visit.
CHAIOLELLA AREA ( if you have children)
If you're traveling with children, the best choice is Chiaiolella (or Ciraccio). This beach is spacious, the water is clear, and the sun shines along the coastline all day, so you can choose the time that suits you best to go to the beach. There are several beach clubs where you can book sun loungers and umbrellas to spend a stress-free day relaxing by the shore.
MARINA DI CORRICELLA ( If you are a couple )
As a couple, opt for Marina Corricella, the ideal location for experiencing the island's authentic atmosphere and romantic vibe. At sunset, take your sweetheart for a magical walk along the harbor among the fishing boats and the colorful houses. Stop to sample exquisite local seafood specialties at one of the delightful restaurants set directly on the pier. From Marina Corricella, you can reach the beautiful Chiaia beach by boat as well as the ancient medieval village of Terra Murata on foot.
POZZO VECCHIO
Another good choice for accommodation is near the famous Pozzo Vecchio beach (you may recognize it as the backdrop in a number of scenes from the film “The Postman” with Massimo Troisi), where you can also enjoy the beauty of the nature reserve that surrounds the beach.
MARINA GRANDE PORT ( more interested visiting the island than beaches)
For those who are more interested in visiting the island than spending time on the beach, the port of Marina Grande is an excellent alternative: the taxi stand and bus terminal that connect to destinations across the island are just steps away from the ferry dock, where you can also leave for a boat excursion around the island.
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My last TIPS
I suggest you being at Capodichino airport at least 3 hours before your plane's departure.
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