POSITANO ITINERARY ( info + history + legend + what to do + where to eat + where to stay + best beaches + best beach clubs )
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ABOUT POSITANO
Famous for its spectacular setting, this vertical town is a resort destination and international fashion center.
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Positano, like the legendary Sirens of Li Galli, never fails to seduce.
Seen from the sea, Positano is set in an impressive vertical panorama of colors: the green of the Monti Lattari; the white, pink, and yellow of the Mediterranean houses; the silvery grey of its pebble beaches; and the blue of the sea.
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THE HISTORY OF POSITANO
The ancient Romans built a number of sumptuous villas on the coast of Positano, the ruins of which can be seen in the vicinity of the Church dell'Assunta.
It is believed that the town was founded in the 9th century around a Benedictine abbey.
The town grew considerably following the arrival of inhabitants from Paestum, who were fleeing Saracen incursions.
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After it was pillaged by Pisa in 1268, Positano increased its defenses, becoming similar to its powerful neighbor, Amalfi, with steep narrow roads, massive fortified walls, and a series of all-important watch towers.
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The majolica-tiled dome of the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta can be seen from every corner of the town. A Byzantine-inspired icon of a Black Madonna dating back to the 18th century is conserved inside the church.
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THE NAME POSITANO IS LINKED TO A LEGEND
In ancient times, a Turkish boat became beached just off the shores of what has since come to be known as Positano. Aboard the ship was a painting of the Virgin Mary. Legend has it that the captain heard the painting whisper "posa, posa" ('set me down, set me down') and he obediently threw the image into the sea. Miraculously, the grounded ship floated free and was saved. The locals built a church on the spot where the painting washed ashore, interpreting the episode as a sign that the Virgin had chosen their town as a resting place.
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The fortunes of Positano, like its roads, have continually risen and fallen. In 1343 the town was destroyed by a terrible tsunami, and in the 15th century it was victim to continual attacks by Ottoman pirates.
In the 18th century, Positano enjoyed a period of prosperity as a major port and trading hub. Following the unification of Italy and the opening of a number of new commercial routes, the town's importance began to decline. In just a few decades it was reduced to little more than a humble fishing village, and many of the inhabitants decided to emigrate to the United States.
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A MUSEUM VISIT TO EXPLORE THE HISTORY OF POSITANO
Discover the ancient history of Positano by visiting the local Museo Archeologico Romano. It was recently inaugurated on the site where an ancient Roman villa once stood, beneath the oratory of the Church of the SS. Maria Assunta in Piazza Flavio Gioia 7. Visitors can admire fragments of the original architecture and decorations to learn about Positano's Roman history, with the help of multimedia displays that explain the ruins more in depth. Seasonally the museum is open from 9 am to 8:30 pm April 11 to October 31, and from 10 am to 4 pm November 1 to April 10. You can also take a 30-minute guided tour for groups of up to 10. Tickets cost 15 euros per person and payment is by credit or debit card only.
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TIMELESSLY CHIC RETREAT
Positano once more began to flourish with the construction of the SS163 road, a much-needed alternative to the mountain paths that had until then formed the only link between the Amalfi Coast and the rest of Italy.
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The new road united the town with Sorrento and Naples and allowed the first tourists to reach Positano. These were no ordinary tourists, but rather an elite group of travelers comprised of intellectuals, artists, and celebrities who, from the early 20th century onwards, elected Positano and Ravello as their preferred holiday resorts.
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Escher, Steinbeck, Picasso, Klee, Zeffirelli and Liz Taylor: the list of artists who have fallen helplessly in love with the beauty of Positano's land and seascapes is endless. "Willing prisoners of a legendary landscape," as they used to define themselves.
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THE BEACHES OF POSITANO
Spiaggia Grande is the heart of Positano's waterfront. Spanning 300 meters, this beach is one of the largest on the Amalfi Coast, as well as one of the most glamorous, attracting a fashionable crowd of artists, actors, and celebrities.
Those looking for a more peaceful spot in which to bask in the Mediterranean sun will love Positano's Fornillo beach, which can be reached via a footpath that sets off from Spiaggia Grande.
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MY TIP
Take a dip in the sea, far from everything and everyone
Based on the beach of Marina Grande, Positano's "sea taxi service" operates a fleet of small boats transporting visitors to the paradisiacal little bays, such as Remmese, Clavel, and Cavone, which can only be accessed from the sea.
After a swim, holidaymakers who would like to enjoy some of the Amalfi Coast's delicious fish should ask to be taken to Laurito beach, home of the waterfront "Da Adolfo" restaurant.
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BEACHES OF POSITANO (From Laurito to Fornillo beaches that are postcard-perfect!)
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With its glamorous, celebrity-packed beaches, breathtakingly gorgeous seascapes, and boutique-filled historic center, its easy to see why Positano is the most sought after destination on the Amalfi Coast.
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LAURITO BEACH
Positano's Laurito beach is a tiny little beach, which can reached via a flight of steps which starts in the small square opposite Hotel San Pietro. The name of the beach derives from the many laurels growing in the area. Laurito is divided into a free beach and a private beach, the latter belonging to a small hotel, and has two casual beach restaurants.
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From the pier at Positano's Spiaggia Grande beach, small boats depart about every 30 minutes for the Da Adolfo beachfront restaurant...you can recognize them by the red fish flag waving from the mast. Note that reservations are more or less required to either dine or simply relax on a sun lounger here.
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Da Adolfo beach club + restaurant
Address : Via Laurito, 40, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/Jf1ZJUP
ARIENZO BEACH
The Arienzo beach is often called the 300 steps beach, because of the impressive number of steps visitors need to climb down to reach it. On their way down towards the sea, holidaymakers can catch glimpses of the gardens of some of the Amalfi Coast's most luxurious villas, including one which once belonged to Franco Zeffirellli. Facing the south west, the beach enjoys the sun longer than any other in Positano. The beach is divided into private and free areas.
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HOW TO GET TO THE ARIENZO AND LAURITO BEACHES
- By public transport: Sita buses stop both at Laurito and Arienzo. Buses operated by the Flavio Gioia Coach company depart from the center of Positano. A shuttle boat service is available from both Positano and Praiano.
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MARINA GRANDE BEACH (SPIAGGIA GRANDE) - POSITANO
Ideal picture postcard material, Positano's main beach is one of the liveliest and most cosmopolitan of all those on the Amalfi Coast. Along the large, three hundred meter long beach, which lies almost directly opposite the archipelago of Li Galli, there is a string of restaurants and bars and a famous discotheque (Music On the Rocks). Its easy to see why the beach has become the focus of the town's social life, where the locals come to mingle with the world's celebrities and tourists. The beach has two bathing establishments and a free area, from where excursions along the coast and shuttle boats to the nearby bays depart.
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FORNILLO BEACH
Via a romantic walk, between the sea and the cliffs, beginning at Positano harbor, holidaymakers come to Fornillo beach: a well-established favorite amongst those searching for a more peaceful beach than that of Marina Grande. This said, given the vicinity to the center of Positano, during summer weekends even Fornillo can be crowded with sun worshippers.
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HOW TO GET TO THE MARINA GRANDE AND FORNILLO BEACHES
By public transport: Sita buses and, in the summer, all of the region's major boat companies.
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LI GALLI , THE ISLAND OF SIRENS
Legend has it that the three islets of Li Galli, set just off the shores of Positano and often referred to as the "Sirenuse," were inhabited by Sirens who attempted to seduce with their song all those who sailed nearby.
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Perhaps the most famous of those to have been enchanted by the islets' mysterious beauty is the ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, who spent the last years of his life here.
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SOUVENIRS FROM POSITANO
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- Try limoncello liqueur made with Amalfi Coast lemons.
- Purchase a pair of the beautiful sandals from one of the many artisan workshops lining the streets of the center. The craftsperson will measure your foot and you can choose the style and decorations for a custom pair of sandals made in half an hour.
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Buy an authentic pezza di Positano, traditional garments made from cotton, linen, and silk, perfect for exploring the coastline.
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EXPLORING THE AREA AROUND POSITANO
If you'd like to explore further afield after a few hours lazing in the sun, shopping in Positano's colorful boutiques, and enjoying delizia al limone on the terrace of the Zagara restaurant, then you should take one of the paths leading to the tiny mountain outposts above Positano.
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Zagara Restaurant
Address : Via dei Mulini, 10, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/zQDZHQT
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MONTEPERTUSO
A seemingly endless flight of steps and a small road that winds its way up the hill unite Positano with Montepertuso, in the Monti Lattari. Legend has it that the hole in the mountain was created by the Virgin's index finger. You can get there by the footpath leading to the Oasis of Vallone Porto, which has numerous waterfalls and species of rare plants and animals. One of the Amalfi Coast's most spectacular religious festivals is held here on the 2nd of July in the Church of the Madonna delle Grazie.
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THE HAMLET OF NOCELLE
Just beneath the summit of Montepertuso is the tiny hamlet of Nocelle, a fraction of Positano that until recently could only be reached via a pathway winding its way around the mountain or a flight of 1,500 steps starting on the beach of Arienzo.
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Nocelle is at the end of the Sentiero degli Dei, or the Path of the Gods, the mountain trail which traverses the Monti Lattari from Agerola.
One of the most beautiful views on the Amalfi Coast, extending as far as the island of Capri and the Faraglioni rocks, can be seen from the hamlet's main square.
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WHERE TO STAY IN POSITANO
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🛎️ Hotel Le Sirenuse
Address : Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/Z21UWt7
Website : https://sirenuse.it/en/
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🛎️ Hotel Il San Pietro di Positano
Address : Via Laurito, 2, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/gPxtGQz
Website : https://www.ilsanpietro.com/it/
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🛎️ Hotel Treville Positano
Address : Via Arienzo, 30, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/oekQwB3
Website : https://villatreville.com/
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WHERE TO EAT IN POSITANO
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Casa e Bottega ( For a light, healthy lunch: Casa e Bottega, a unique bistrot serving healthy salads, avocado toast, and fresh juices and smoothies. You can also purchase anything you see in the dining room, including the table settings!
Address : Viale Pasitea, 100, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/MbyZYvS
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La Rada in Positano (For a romantic dinner: Rada, a terrace on the coastal cliff overlooking the sea and the colorful houses in Positano.
Address : Località Grotte dell'Incanto, 51, 84017, Positano
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/Kd5eheS
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La Tagliata ( steak house )
Address : Via Tagliata, 32B, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/ni76LME
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La Zagara ( Zagara, the most famous and best pastry shop in Positano. Try the delizia al limone and relax at a table in the garden)
Address : Via dei Mulini, 10, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/6iQ2tPA
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Le Terrazze (a well-established favorite among V.I.P watchers (you might easily spot Positano-regular, Denzel Washington here)
Address : Via Cristoforo Colombo, 50, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/SsG8RXz
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g194863...
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Next 2 ( a restaurant and wine bar with a spectacularly panoramic terrace. Famous for its minimalist-chic interiors and super-cool lounge and jazz music, Next 2 stays open until the early hours in the summer months)
Address : Viale Pasitea, 242, 84017 Positano SA
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g194863...
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IF YOU LOVE MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS
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La Sponda , inside le Sirenuse hotel
(With an outdoor terrace and candlelit indoor dining area, this is one of the most romantic restaurants in Positano. It also has a beautiful view over the town)
Address : Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30, 84017 Positano SA
Google link : https://g.co/kgs/f1CExjX
Tripadvisor link : https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g194863-d1116369-Reviews-Ristorante_La_Sponda-Positano_Amalfi_Coast_Province_of_Salerno_Campania.html
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POSITANO NIGHT LIFE
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MUSIC ON THE ROCKS (Positano's only disco, on a cliff edge terrace, within steps of the sea)
Address : Località Grotte Dell'incanto, 51, 84017, Positano SA
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BEACH CLUBS IN POSITANO
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- BEACH CLUB ARIENZO ( Positano)
Address : Via Arienzo, 16, 84017 Positano SA
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There are two ways to reach this exclusive beach club just east of Positano: climb down the 300 steps from the road above (but keep in mind that you have to climb back up at the end of the day) or hire a boat to take you by sea. Though the steps are fabulously scenic, passing Villa Tre Ville and the former residence of Franco Zeffirelli and its private chapel, the thought of having to take the hundreds of steps back up to the roadside after a day of sunbathing, dining on pasta seafood, and downing cocktails can give even the fittest traveler pause. Instead, hop on the shuttle that makes the trip back and forth regularly throughout the day between the beach and the dock on Positano's main Spiaggia Grande. This ride is equally scenic and makes for a great selfie against the backdrop of Positano.
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Arienzo beach club : is especially known for its cocktails, served directly to your lounger by the welcoming staff. Try the "sgroppino" with vodka, prosecco, and lemon granita. Guests who don't want to give up a minute of sun can even enjoy lunch on their loungers, with a table set up directly on the beach. Otherwise, the waterfront restaurant is just steps away and offers a small clutch of tables under a shaded pergola.
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This beach club offers full-day packages with lunch, lounger, sun umbrella, and drinks from EUR 235/person.
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- BEACH CLUB LA SCOGLIERA ( positano)
Address : Spiaggia, Via del Brigantino, 84017 Positano
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Take a break from the crowds and chaos on Positano's main Spiaggia Grande and head to this iconic spot, famous for its white sunbeds and umbrellas. Visitors who want a more relaxing atmosphere and privacy flock to this remote cove with its stretch of sand and terraces built directly over the water.
There is plenty of room between the sunbeds and umbrellas on this adults-only beach, so the vibe is chic and sophisticated and the noise level at a minimum. Cocktails and lunch are served on the terrace bar and restaurant facing the Li Galli Islets with a view of Positano. The beach club closes at sunset on some days but on others remains open for DJ sets by moonlight. Prices start from EUR 250 for a place with 1 or 2 sunbeds and include entrance, umbrella, the sunbeds themselves, unlimited use of the shower, towels, Wi-Fi and a bottle of water.
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- BEACH CLUB DA ADOLFO ( Positano)
Address : Via Laurito, 40, 84017 Positano SA
Link : https://g.co/kgs/X4HBS6S
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You would never know that this rustic beach club is one of the most exclusive on the Amalfi Coast. Waiters run up and down the stairs barefoot and laden with heaping plates of pasta, the sunbeds have seen better days, and the restaurant tables are perched rather precariously here and there on the coastal rocks. Yet this is where all the stars want to head for at least one day during their time on the coastline to relax and eat a generous portion of "impepata di cozze" like commoners.
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Good luck booking ahead (unless, of course, you know someone who knows someone) since they rarely answer the phone here, never answer emails, and won't take bookings via Instagram. If you try to board their shuttle boat from Positano, you'll be told that only clients with confirmed reservations are allowed on board. So how can one manage to get a sunbed and lunch reservation? Try calling during the quieter low season or ask your hotel concierge for an insider recommendation…
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- BEACH CLUB ON-FIRE LA GAVITELLA ( Praiano)
Address : Via Gavitella, 1, 84010 Praiano SA
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Located in Praiano, the only spot on the Amalfi Coast with sunset views, this beach club has the added perk of sunlight until late in the day, ideal for evening cocktails and dance parties. One Fire is the hottest beach club on the Amalfi Coast, famous for its afternoon “melon time” with DJ sets and theatrical watermelon slicing for guests. If you came to party, this is the beach club for you.
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Keep in mind, however, that this club does not actually have a beach but a platform over the water and sunbeds set on flat areas of the coastal cliffs.
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My last TIPS
I suggest you being at Capodichino airport at least 3 hours before your plane's departure.
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